Why We Honeymooned in Scotland

The magical view of downtown Edinburgh.

"You spent a week in Edinburgh? Why?! It's so dreary."

We often hear this comment when we tell our friends and family about our honeymoon trip to Edinburgh, Scotland, in the fall of 2014. Ten years later, I still dream about our days in that magical misty city, as if transported to a different era woven with love and history. Let me take you on our 8-day journey through Edinburgh, where our romance flourished among its charming streets as we savored our share of haggis, encountered the ghosts of its past, and witnessed the historic 2014 independence referendum.

Cozy and romantic setting

As our plane descended in Edinburgh, we immediately noticed the stunning landscape surrounding the city: hills upon hills that circled old buildings and cobblestone streets. Edinburgh Castle loomed at the center, its formidable silhouette partially shrouded by the morning fog. We took the Airlink bus from the airport to Waverley Station and walked to our Airbnb on Thistle Street. We quickly settled into our one-bedroom apartment overlooking the quiet street below, delighting in the rich, buttery flavor of the delicate cookies our gracious host had left behind. "Welcome to Scotland, enjoy your honeymoon," she wrote on a handwritten note next to a bottle of wine and some flowers.

Thistle Street is where our Airbnb was located.

Our days were spent exploring the city or walking hand-in-hand through the hundreds of quaint shops, each bursting with character. We would pick a new coffee shop in the mornings to enjoy a quiet sip of decadent Scottish tea and buttery scones covered with clotted cream and jam. We cherished our evenings cuddled close, wrapped in the warmth of our cozy apartment, listening to the gentle tap of rain falling gracefully against the window. We thought to ourselves, nothing can be more romantic than this!

Our perspective on food changed forever

Within that first bite of eggs during breakfast, we immediately realized nothing tasted as expected. "This is the creamiest scrambled eggs I have ever tasted!" exclaimed my husband. Every bite after that, we were devouring the fresh and deep flavors of the simple ingredients. The tomatoes were tangier, the onions were softer, and the carrots were sweeter. The meats didn't have that musky taste, and the grains felt good in our stomachs. After several meals, we realized how notably fresher and more vibrant the quality of food in Scotland felt compared to our experiences back in the U.S.

The meals were simple: sausages and potatoes on some days and toast with eggs on others. But the accompanying vegetables and sauces were anything but simple. The flavors were deep and complex, and eating was a joy! The haggis? 10/10. It was the perfect blend of hearty grains and spiced meats wrapped in a flavorful sausage, each bite bursting with an exquisite medley of taste without being overly greasy. The ingredients are key, and we never look at food the same way ever again.

Inspired by our culinary adventures from the honeymoon, I uncovered the world of community-supported agriculture (CSAs), hoping to replicate those fresh ingredients we savored in Scotland.

Breathtaking history and scenery

It wasn't lost on me that we were standing on thousands of years of history. Our Airbnb was in a building that was likely built centuries ago. The cobblestone streets below? Maybe longer than that. Everywhere we looked, there was proof of the many people who carved their stories into the essence that makes Edinburgh the way it is.

On one of our evening walks, a young lady dressed in a Historic highland dress with a full tartan skirt convinced us to take a ghost tour, a few hours walk throughout the old (but not forgotten) underground city, also known as the Underground Vaults. It was a chilling tour that told the story of Edinburgh's dark past, especially during the early 19th century, when a cholera outbreak took the lives of many who had fled to the vaults.

Feeling inspired, we went on another, albeit more commercialized, tour to The Real Mary King's Close and saw the more extensive network of tunnels connecting the vaults. We walked through old streets, buildings, and rooms, all below the bustling streets above. It was creepy, but we were fascinated.

To this very day, I can't shake the thought of Annie, a little girl abandoned during the worst of the outbreaks. Visitors adorn her room with dolls and other gifts, a tradition that continues today. (Thanks to the love from strangers, the guide told us that the spirit had moved on, and many of the dolls were donated to local hospitals and orphanages.)

The crowds entering Edinburgh Castle.

You can witness the vivid history in the depths of Edinburgh's underground and its majestic castles. We began our castle tours at the grand Edinburgh Castle, the most crowded. Upon reaching the top, you'd be able to see the vast landscape that surrounds Edinburgh while breathing the brisk wind seeping through the castle's arrow slits. We continued visiting the Palace of Holyroodhouse, where the late Queen and the Royal Family would spend their summers. It was a glimpse into a royalty's life, seeing their personal effects throughout the castle and gardens.

Toward our last day, we took a tour to Holy Island, where Lindisfarne Castle stood and is only accessible during low tide. We crossed the border to England and visited Bamburgh Castle and Alnwick Castle, where they filmed the quidditch scene from Harry Potter. On the way back, we stopped at the border between the two countries to say we were simultaneously standing in Scotland and England!

The most notable historical experience was being present in person during the 2014 independence referendum. Witnessing the passionate expression of democracy, which was considered one of the country's highest voting turnouts, was a marvel. People posted signs throughout the city, crowds gathered to chant their votes, and the town was loud with an energetic pulse as the citizens decided whether to separate from the UK or become independent.

On September 18, 2014, Scotland voted to remain part of the UK. On the morning of September 19, the city was brimming with newfound energy: a fresh wave of democratic enthusiasm driving Scotland forward.

A rich artistic culture

Scotland's artistic culture serves as the backdrop of the city, which is evident especially during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe (I know we were there during an exciting time!) Performers filled the streets, and music of all genres serenaded our everyday walks. The Fringe Festival turned Edinburgh into a hub of creativity, with theater, comedy, and dance shows filling stages throughout the town. Unfortunately, we didn't have a chance to see any of the shows during our time there; we were only there for 8 days, after all! We felt the artistic buzz nonetheless.

A magical honeymoon

As our honeymoon ended, we realized that Scotland wasn't just a trip we could easily forget; it truly marked the beginning of our married life. Years on, we have made many more memories of traveling, eating, and parenting. But Scotland will always hold a dear place in our hearts, and we will forever cherish this adventure.

Here's to all the lovers out there; may your adventures be as enchanting as ours!